Long Board versus Head!
Long board versus Head – Look after him they said. He’s accident prone they said. Oh how right they were! Day 2 and he’s calling me out the water, blood dripping down his face. Yep, he marginally came off worse compared to my surfboard! A one inch gash to his forehead hairline and a few scratches to boot. My board however, a 9′ 2” Tiki Classic Performer, had the tail caved in around the stringer! Wow, how hard his head was to do that damage to the board. From the line-up I shouted him to sit quietly in the shade whilst I took a wave in. His surfing was over for the day. The wound cleaned, steristripped and dressed, his task was of photographer now! Regular checks to make sure he was not nauseous or having double vision, and it was back to business! Krishantha and myself having the pick of the waves at Potti Point, the swell ever increasing. More than four hours we surfed for. My thoughts taking me back to the last time I surfed here, back in July, and how my good friend, Nick ‘Lloydy’ Lloyd, would have ripped these waves apart. Then, it was not to be. Next year, maybe!
Add comment September 26th, 2009
